Vietnam Royal Tourism

Phu Quoc Overview

One of Vietnam's star attractions, mountainous and forested Phu Quoc is a splendid tropical getaway set with beautiful white-sand beaches and quaint fishing villages. Adventure comes in many forms here - from cycling the island to sea kayaking its quiet inlets, scuba diving the coral reefs or simply having a bang-up seafood meal followed by a cocktail on the beach. Once a sleepy, backpackers' retreat, Phu Quoc has ramped up tourism significantly, and visitors can now choose between five-star resorts and rustic family run bungalows. Plans are underway for developing the island even more heavily - a la Phuket style. If package tourism isn't your bag, get there now before this happens.
The tear-shaped island lies in the Gulf of Thailand, 45km west of Ha Tien and 15km south of the coast of Cambodia. At 48km long (with an area of 1320 sq km), Phu Quoc is Vietnam's largest island and its most politically contentious: Phu Quoc is claimed by Cambodia; its Khmer name is Ko Tral - which is why the Vietnamese have built a substantial military base covering much of the northern end of the island (thankfully, the military presence is fairly invisible).
Phu Quoc Island served as a base for the French missionary Pigneau de Behaine during the 1760s and 1780s. Prince Nguyen Anh, wlio later became Emperor Gia Long. was sheltered here by Behaine when he was being hunted by the Tay Son Rebels.
Phu Quoc is not really part of the Mekong Delta and doesn't share the delta's extraordinary ability to produce rice. The most valuable crop is black pepper, but the islanders here have traditionally earned their living from the sea. Phu Quoc is also famous in Vietnam for its production of high-quality fish sauce (nuoc mam).
The island has some unusual hunting dogs, which have ridgebacks, curly tails and blue tongues and are said to be able to pick up their masters' scent from over 1km away (the nuoc mam their masters cat certainly helps). Unfortunately, the dogs have decimated much of the island's wildlife.
Despite the impending development (of a new international airport, a golf course and a casino), much of this island is still protected since becoming a national park in 2001. Phu Quoc National Park covers close to 70% of the island, an area of 31,422 hectares.
Phu Quoc's rainy season is from July to November. The peak season for tourism is midwinter, when the sky is blue and the sea is calm; however, when it's not raining it's stinking hot. Bring sunglasses and plenty of sunblock, lake plenty of water when setting out to explore the island.

Sights & Activities

Bai Dai & Bai Thom

These are both remote beaches: Bai Dai is in the far northwest and Bai Thom is on the northeastern coast. A new road to Bai Dai cuts down on motorbike time and red dust in your face. You can rest assured that neither beach will be crowded.
Both are in military areas, but Bai Dai is open to the public and has a couple of restaurants, The military usually opens Bai Thom to civilians on Sunday but you must leave your passport with the military receptionist while you're on the base. In any event, do not try to sneak onto the beaches: make local inquiries and obey the rules.

Bai Cua Can & Long Beach

The most accessible beach, Bai Cua Can is in the northwest. It's 11km from Duong Dong. Long Beach (Bai Truong) is indeed a long, spectacular stretch of sand from Duong Dong southward along the west coast, almost to An Thoi port (20km). The southern end of the beach is known as Tau Ru Bay (Khoe Tau Ru). The water is crystal clear and the beach is lined with coconut palms.
Long Beach is easily accessible on foot (just walk south from Duong Dong's Cau Castle), but you will need a motorbike or bicycle to reach some of the remote stretches towards the southern end of the island. The beach around the family-run guesthouse area is a particularly popular spot. There are a few bamboo huts where you can buy drinks, but bring water if you're planning a long hike along this beach.

Bai Sao & Bai Dam

Two beautiful white-sand beaches along the southeastern part of the island are Bai Sao and Bai Dam, situated just a few kilometres from An Thoi. There are a couple of beachfront restaurants at Bai Sao.
Just south of these beaches is undeveloped Bai Khem, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and also, sadly, a military area that's closed to the public.

SUOI DA BAN

Compared with the waterlogged Mekong Delta, Phu Quoc has very little surface moisture; however, several springs originate in the hills. The most accessible of these is Suoi Da Ban . Basically, it's a white-water creek tumbling across some attractive large granite boulders. There are deep pools and it's pleasant enough for a swim. Bring plenty of mosquito repellent.
Another pleasant waterfall is Suoi Tranh which is reachable by a 10-minute walk through the forest from the ticket counter.

FOREST RESERVE

Phu Quoc's poor soil and lack of surface water have disappointed farmers for generations, although their grief has been the island's environmental salvation. About 90% of the island is forested and the trees now enjoy official protection. Indeed, this is the last large stand of forest in the south. The forest is most dense in the northern half of the island. The area is a forest reserve (Khu Rung Nguyen Sinh). You'll need a motorbike or mountain bike to get into the reserve. There are a few primitive dirt roads, but no real hiking trails.

AN THOI ISLANDS

Off the southern tip of Phu Quoc are the tiny An Thoi Islands (Quan Dao An Thoi). These 15 islands and islets can be visited by chartered boat, and it's a fine area for sightseeing, fishing, swimming and snorkel-ling. Hon Thom (Pineapple Island) is about 3km in length and is the largest island in the group. Other islands here include Hon Dua (Coconut Island), Hon Roi (Lamp Island), Hon Vang (Echo Island), Hon May Rut (Cold Cloud Island), Hon Dam (Shadow Island), Chan Qui (Yellow Tortoise) and Hon Mong Tay (Short Gun Island). Most boats depart from An Thoi on Phu Quoc, but you can make arrangements through hotels in Duong Dong. The Tropicana Resort has a large boat for charter that can make the trip directly from Long Beach. You can also inquire at Rainbow Divers (see below). Boat charters are seasonal and generally do not run during the rainy season.

DIVING & SNORKELLING

Though Nha Trang gets the biggest billing as Vietnam's best dive destination, diving opportunities also abound around Phu Quoc - but only during the dry months of November to May.

KAYAKING

There are several places to rent kayaks along Bai Sao beach, and its protected, fairly calm waters make for a smooth ride. In addition to locals who hire out boats, you can ask at either restaurant along the beach

PHU QUOC PEARL FARM

On an isolated stretch of Long Beach, Phu Quoc Pearls is a requisite stop if you're shopping for pearls. A small shop sells pear) necklaces and earrings, and wall panels describe (in English) how the oysters yield their goods. There's a tiny cafe on site. Avid pearl hunters can find cheaper wares at kiosks in the village of Ham Ninh.

CAU CASTLE (DINH CAU)

Duong Dong's main attraction is Cau Castle . In fact, it's not so much a castle as a combination temple and lighthouse. It was built in 1937 to honour Thien Hau (Goddess of the Sea), who provides protection for sailors and fishermen. The castle is worth a quick look and gives you a good view of the harbour entrance. Around sunset, locals stroll along the promenade leading from the castle to the decrepit Huong Bien Hotel.

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