Hanoi Overview
Vietnam’s capital city, Hanoi is a city of numerous captivating faces. The traditional commercial bustle, street markets, chaotic traffic and fascinating shophouse architecture of the Old Quarter contrast dramatically with the quiet lakes, historic temples, shady city parks and regal architecture of the French colonial districts.
Hanoi’s 1,000 year history has lent the city this fascinating blend of influences and styles - it's one of Travel Indochina’s favourite cities! Join us to explore the shady gardens of the Temple of Literature, Hanoi’s ancient university, with its colourful Confucian temple.
Imagine a city where the exotic chic of old Asia blends with the dynamic face of new Asia Where the medieval and modern co-exist. A city with a blend of Parisian grace and Asian pace, an architectural museum piece evolving in harmony with its history, rather than bulldozing through like many of the region's capitals. Hanoi is where imagination becomes reality. A mass of motorbikes swarm- through the tangled web of streets that is the Old Quarter, a cauldron of commerce for almost 1000 years and still the best place to check the pulse of this resurgent city. Hawkers in conical hats ply their wares, locals sip coffee and bia hoi (beer) watching life (and plenty of tourists) pass them by- Witness synchronised t'ai chi at dawn on the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake while goateed grandfathers tug at their wisps over the next chess move. See the bold and beautiful dine at designer restaurants and cut the latest moves on the dance floor. Hanoi has it all: the ancient history, a colonial legacy and a modern outlook. There is no better place to untangle the paradox that is modern
Vietnam. The grand old dame of Asia, Hanoi lay in a deep slumber after Vietnam's partition in 1954 until the effects of economic reforms kicked in four decades later- The city survived American bombs and Russian planners to emerge relatively unscathed in the early 1990s as an example of a French-conceived colonial city. Huge mansions line grand boulevards, and lakes and parks dot the city, providing a romantic backdrop to the nonstop soundtrack. There are still moments of Paris, as the smell of baguettes and cafe au lait permeates street corners. Known by many names down the centuries, Thang Long (City of the Soaring Dragon) is the most evocative, and let there be no doubt that this dragon is on the up once rnore
Old Quarter
This is the Asia we dreamed of from afar. Steeped in history, pulsating with life, bubbling with commerce, buzzing with motorbikes and rich in exotic scents, the Old Quarter is Hanoi's historic heart. The streets are narrow and congested, and crossing the road is an art form, but remember to look up as well as down, as there is some elegant old architecture in and among the chaos. Hawkers pound me streets, sizzling and smoking baskets hiding a cheap meal for the locals Pho stalls and bia hoi dens hug every corner, resonant with the sound of gossip and laughter Modern yet medieval, there is no better way to spend time in Hanoi than walking the streets. .soaking up the sights, sounds and smelts. Home to a thousand years of history, the commercial quarter of the city evolved along side the Red River and the smaller To Lich River, which once flowed through [he city centre in an intricate network of canals and waterways, teeming with boats. Waters could rise as high as 8m during the monsoon. Dikes were constructed to protect the city and these can still be seen along Tran Quang Khai. In the 13th century Hanoi's 36 guilds established themselves here, each taking a different street - hence the original name '36 Streets'. Today, there are more than 50 streets in today's Old Quarter. Hang means ‘merchandise’ and is usually followed by the name of the product that was traditionally sold in that street...Pho Hang Gai translates as ‘Silk Street’ (see the boxed text below for the rest);these days the street name may not indicate what’s sold there. The area is known for its tunnel (or tube) houses -so called because of their narrow frontages and long rooms. These tunnel houses were developed to avoid taxes based on the width of then street frontage By feudal law, houses werealso limited to two storeys and, out of respect for the king, could not be taller than the Royal Palace. These days there are taller buildings, but no real high-rise buildings. Opportunities to dispense with your dong are endless. As you wander around you'll find clothes, cosmetics, fake sunglasses, luxury food, T - shirts, musical instruments, plumb ing supplies, herbal medicines, jewellers', religious offerings, spices, woven mats and much, much more. Some of the specialised streets include Pho Hang Quat, with its red candlesticks, funeral boxes, flags and temple items; and the more glamorous Pho Hang Gai, with its silk, embroidery, lacquer-ware, paintings and water puppets - silk sleeping-bag liners and! elegant ao dai (the national dress of Vietnam) are popular here. Finally, no trip to the Old Quarter would he complete without a visit to the Dong Xuan Market , rebuilt after a fire in 1994. A stroll through the historic Old Quarter can last anywhere from an hour to the better part of a day, depending on your pace. However long, or whatever detours you might take. the Walking Tour will provide you with a heady dose of Vietnamese culture, lots of shopping opportunities and some insight into the city's long history.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex
This is the holiest of the holies for many Vietnamese. To the west of the Old Quarter, the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum complex (entrance Pho Ngoc Ha & Pho Doi Can) is an important place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese, combin¬ing the secular and the spiritual. A traffic-free area of parks, monuments, memorials and pagodas, it's usually crowded with groups of all ages who have come to pay their respects.
HO CHI MINH'S MAUSOLEUM
In the tradition of Lenin and Stalin before him - and Mao afterwards - Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum is a monumental marble edifice that is a mecca for many Vietnamese. Contrary to his desire for a simple cremation, the mausoleum was constructed of native materials gathered from all over Vietnam between 1973 and 1975. The roof and peristyle are said to evoke either a traditional communal house or a lotus flower, though to many tourists it looks like a concrete cubicle with columns. Set deep in the bowels of the building in a glass sarcophagus is the body of Ho Chi Minh. The mausoleum is closed for about three months each year while Ho Chi Minh's embalmed corpse goes to Russia for maintenance. Some -sceptics have suggested Madame Tussaud's lias the contract these days. The queue, which moves quite quickly, usually snakes for several hundred metres tc the mausoleum entrance itself. Inside, more guards, regaled in snowy-white military uniforms, are posted at intervals of five paces giving an eerily authoritarian aspect to the slightly macabre spectacle of the embalmed body with its wispy while hair. The following rules are strictly applied to all visitors to the mausoleum:
People wearing shorts, tank tops and so on will not be admitted. Nothing (including day packs, cameras and mobiles) can be taken inside. Maintain a respectful demeanour at all times: no talking or sniggering For obvious reasons of decorum, photography is absolutely prohibited inside the mausoleum. It is forbidden to put your hands in your pockets.Hats must be taken off inside the mauso leum building. Most of the visitors are Vietnamese and it's interesting to watch their reactions. Most show deep respect and admiration for Ho Chi Minh, who is honoured for his role us the liberator of the Vietnamese people from colonialism, as much as for his communist ideology. This view is reinforced by Vietnam’s educational system, which emphasises Ho’s deeds and accomplishments. If you're lucky, you’llcatch the changing of the guard outside Ho's mausoleum - the pomp and ceremony displayed here rivals she British equivalent at Buckingham Palace. Photography is permitted outside the building but not inside and visitors must leave their bags and mobile phones at a counter just inside the entrance.
HO CHi MINH'S STILT HOUSE & THE PRESIDENTIAL PALACE
Behind Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum is a stilt house (Nha San Bac Ho), where Ho lived on and off from 1958 to 1969. The house is an upmarket interpretation of traditional rural dwelling, and has been preserved just as Ho left it. Its set in a well-tended garden next to a carp-filled pond. Just how much lime he actually spent here is questionable the house would have been a tempting target for US bombers had it been suspected that Ho was hanging out here. In stark contrast to the understated stit house is the imposing Presidential Palace a beautifully restored colonial building constructed in 1906 as the Palace of the. Governor General of Indochina. It is now used for official receptions and isn’t open to the public. There is a combined entrance gate to the stilt house and Presidential Palace grounds on Pho Ong Ich Kiem,inside the mausoleum complex; when the main mausoleum entrance is closed,enter from Hung Vuong Street near the palace building.
ONE PILLAR PAGODA
A Hanoi landmark, the One Pillar Pagoda (Chua Mot Cot) was built by the Emperor Ly Thai Tong, who ruled from 1028 to 1054. According to the annals, the heirless emperor dreamed that he had met Quan The Am Bo Tat, the Goddess of Mercy, who, while seated on a lotus flower, handed hi in a male child. Ly Thai Tong then married A young peasant girl and had a son. As a way of expressing his gratitude for this event, he constructed this pagoda in 1049 The delicate One Pillar Paged; built of wood on a single stone pillar, is designed to resemble a lotus blossom, the .symbol of purity, rising out ot a sea of sorrow. One of the last (malicious and pointless) acts of the French before quitting Hanoi in 1954 was to destroy the original One Pillar Pagoda; the structure was rebuilt by the new government. The pagoda is between the mausoleum and the museum.
TEMPLE OF LITERATURE
A rare example of well-preserved traditional Vietnamese architecture, the Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) is a relaxing retreat from the noisy streets of Hanoi. If you only plan to visit one temple in Hanoi, be sure to make it this one It was founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, who dedicated it to Confucius (Khong Tu) in order to honour scholars and men of literary accomplishment. Vietnam's first university was established here in 1076 to educate the sons of mandarins In 1484 Emperor Le Thanh Tong ordered that stelae be erected to record the names, places of birth and achievements of men who received doctorates in triennial examinations held from 1442. Although 116 examinations were held between 1442 and 1778, when the practice was discontinued, only 82 stelae are extant. In 1802 Emperor Gia Long transferred the National University to his new capital in Hue. Major renovations were earned out here in 1920 and 1956. The Temple ot Literature is made up of five separate courtyards. The central pathways and gates between them were reserved for the king. The walkways on one side were for the use of administrative mandarins, while those on the other side were for military mandarins. The main entrance is preceded by a gate, on which there's an inscription requesting that visitors dismount their horses before entering. Make sure you do. Khue Van Pavil ion, at the far side of the second courtyard, was constructed in 1802 and is a fine example of Vietnamese architecture. The 82 stelae, considered to be the most precious artefacts in the temple, are arrayed to cither side ot the third enclosure; each one sits on a stone tortoise. The secular intrudes on the spiritual these. days, with a host of souvenir shops flank ing the Thai Hoc courtyard.
NGOC SON TEMPLE
Founded in the 18th century, Ngoc Son Temple is on an island in the northern part of Hoan Kiem Lake. Surrounded by water and shaded by trees, it is a delightfully quiet place to escape the bustle of Hanoi. The temple is dedicated to the scholar Van Xuong, General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century, and La To, the patron saint ot physicians. Ngoc Son Temple is reached via the red The Hue (Rising Sun) Bridge, constructed in 1885.
QUAN THANH TEMPLE
Shaded by huge trees, Quan Thanh Tempte was established during the Ly dynasty (1010-1225) and was dedicated to Tran Vo (God of the North), whose symbols of power were the tortoise and the snake. A bronze statue and bell date from 1677. The temple is on the shores of Truc Bach Lake, near the intersection of Thanh Nien Street and Quan Thanh Street.
TRAN QUOC PAGODA
One of the oldest in Vietnam, Tran Quoc Pagoda is on the eastern shore of Ho Tay, just off Thanh Nien Street, which divides Ho Tay from True Bach Lake. A stele here, dating from 1639, tells the history of this site. The pagoda was rebuilt in the 15th century and again in 1842. There are a number of monks' funerary monuments in the garden.
VIETNAM MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY
It features a fascinating collection of art and everyday objects gathered from Vietnam and its diverse tribal people. The museum lias excellent maps and the displays are well labelled in Vietnamese, Fench and English. Interesting sections portray a typical village market, the making of conical hats, and a Tay shamanic ceremony while videos show the real-life contexts. There are fabulous displays of weaving and fabric motifs. Visitors can also enter a traditional Black Thai house reconstructed within the museum, and there are outdoor exhibits in [lie landscaped grounds. Ede, H'mong and Jarai houses are popular places to pose for wedding photos; quite a surreal sight. There are often special exhibitions, including the current display on life in the early 1980s under the- coupon system. This could become a permanent feature, as it is so well presented and surprisingly honest about the hardships of life at the time.
HISTORY MUSEUM
A must for the architecture more than the collection, the History Museum was formerly home to the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient in Vietnam. It is an elegant, ochre-coloured structure built between 1925 and 1932. French architect Ernest Hebrard was among the first in Vietnam to incorporate a blend of Chinese and French design elements in his creations, and this particular building remains one of Hanoi's most stunning architectural showpieces. Collections here cover the ups more than the downs of Vietnamese history. Highlights include some excellent bronzes from the Dong Son culture (3rd century BC to 3rd century AD) and some striking Hindu statuary from the Khmer and Champa kingdoms. More recent history is a little one-sided and includes the struggle against the French and the story of the Communist Party
FINE ARTS MUSEUM
The former French Ministry of Information is home to Hanoi's Fine Arts Museum . The collection here includes some very intricate sculptures, paintings, lacquerware, ceramics and other traditional Vietnamese fine arts. It's a good starting point for anyone seriously considering investing in Vietnamese art. Reproductions of antiques are on sale here, but be sure to ask for a certificate to clear these goods through customs when you leave Vietnam.
Street name.........Description............Streetname............Description
Bat Dan................ wooden bowls............Hang Giay.............paper or shoes
Bat Su....................china bowls..............Hang Hanh.............onions
Cha Ca.................roasted fish................Hang Hom............. cases
Chan Cam..............string instruments.....Hang Huong........... mcense
Cho Gao...............rice market................Hang Khay.............trays
Gia Ngu................ fishermen..................Hang Khoai............sweet potatoes
Hai Tuong.............sandals.......................Hang Luoc............ combs
Hang Bac..............silversmiths................Hang Ma...............votive papers
Hang Be...............rafts...........................Hang Mam..............pickied fish..
Hang Bo........... ...baskets.......................Hang Manh.............bamboo screens
Hang Bong............cotton.......................Hang Muoi.............salt
Hang Buom...........sails........................Hang Ngang............transversal street
Hang But..............brushes......................Hang Non..............hats
Hang Ca...............fish............................Hang Phen.............alum
Hang Can..............scales.......................Hang Quat.............fans
Hang Chai.............bottles.......................Hang Ruoi.............dam worms
Hang Chi..............threads......................Hang Than.............charcoal
Hang Chieu............mats........................Hang Thiec............tin
Hang Chinh............jars..........................Hang Thung............barrels
Hang Cot..............bamboo lattices...........Hang Tre..............bamboo
Hang Da...............leather.......................Hang Trong............drums
Hang Dao..............(silk) dye's.................Hang Vai..............cloth
Hang Dan..............beans or oils..............Lo Ren................blacksmiths
Hang Dieu.............pipes.........................Lo Su.................coffins
Hang Dong............copper.......................Ma May................rattan
Hang Duong...........sugar........................Ngo Gach..............bricks
Hang da...............chicken.......................Thuoc Bac.............herbal medicines
Hang Gai..............silk